ты не можешь панель с кнопочками снять или уже до приборки дошёл, если ту что с кнопочками то там 4 винта снизу один из которых под монетницой и два под планкой печки. а ещё один за заглушкой у управления потоками воздуха.
если да приборки дошёл то там надо запихнуть руку за приборку и отсоединить трос, это судя по америкосовскому мануалу
Добавлено (23.10.2008, 23:31)
DA Dashboard Removal
Removing DA dash
Vehicles these instructions apply for: DA5, DA6, DA7, DA8
Example vehicle: 1990 Integra XSi (JDM) manual
Risk of damage: 3/5
Disclaimer: These instructions are intended as a guide only, the author accepts no liability for any damage or unforeseen consequences arising from following these instructions.
These instructions are intended to be fully detailed so that even beginners can attempt this procedure. Most users with some experience will not need the level of detail supplied here. Nonetheless I recommend you read through the full instruction set before attempting this procedure.
Tools: Med. Phillips head screwdriver
Med. flat head screwdriver
Small. flat head screwdriver
19mm socket and extension (can be done without)
Removing the Dash
In order to remove the dash several other panels must be removed first. It is also useful to remove the steering wheel, although this is not essential and has not been removed in the demonstration photos.
Removing the panel above the driver's feet
There are three screws immediately visible along the top of this panel to be removed. The fourth is inside the coin tray. The top will then fall down slightly. Pull this towards you to unhook the bottom of it. There is then a small air pipe above the driver's left foot, which is simply pulled to disconnect. The panel can then be removed.
Removing the steering wheel (optional)
Ensure the steering wheel is level when you remove it, or you will most likely put it back on rotated slightly, meaning that your wheels won't be pointing straight ahead when your steering wheel is.
The centre panel of the steering wheel needs to be pulled out to reveal the 19mm nut behind. This is most easily done by pulling from the top using your nails.
Then use the socket and an extension with an appropriate bar to undo the nut. It will likely be quite difficult to move initially, and you will need to hold the steering wheel while you do this. If you pull against the steering lock there is a chance you will break it, so if you can't do it alone get a friend to hold the steering wheel for you.
(When you reattach it, don't do it up too tightly, as it will lock itself in place and be even harder to remove. A modest torque only is required.)
The steering wheel will then pull off.
Removing the steering column surround
Once the steering wheel is removed you will see a large metal circlip which must be removed. There are then three screws underneath which will need to be removed. Two toward the front, the third will be easily accessed now that the panel above the driver's feet is removed. The top half then unclips from the bottom, and you can afford to be fairly rough with this part if necessary. Once the two are separated they come away easily
Removing the dashboard
There are 9 screws which need to be removed (Fig 2,3,4&5). The tab to the left of the manual air con controls is easily unclipped using the small flat head screwdriver. The auto air con control surround is simply pulled off by hand. The air vent control on the right covers two more screws. There is a screw either side of the steering column which is normally covered by the panel above the driver's feet (Fig 4). The last two screws are above the dash (Fig 5).
Once all the screws are removed I recommend that the dashboard inserts are removed. These simply pop out and the plugs unclipped (Fig 6).
The dashboard can then be pulled out, starting from above the gauge cluster. The air vents are the tricky part, and the parts most likely to get damaged. The grilles are attached to the dashboard by thin plastic clips which are easily broken (Fig 7), but they also have large clips stopping them from being pulled out. I recommend using the medium sized flat headed screwdriver and working along the top of the vents to free them. Press down on the vent and try to lift the surrounding soft material over each clip individually. There are four in the centre and two on the right (Fig 8). Alternatively you may try unclipping the vents from the dashboard, but I have not tried this.
BELOW: FIGURES 2,3 and 4
BELOW: FIGURES 5,6 and 7
Once the vents are released the dashboard needs to be pulled forward so that the air con temperature sensor (the large cream colored trumpet shaped object) can be unplugged (Fig 9). This may not be present on models without climate control.
Using the flexibility of the dashboard it can now be removed. The vents make it slightly V shaped, so you will need to bend it slightly.
BELOW: FIGURES 8,9 and 10
Removing the gauge cluster
There are 4 screws holding the gauge cluster in place (Fig 10). Remove these, then pull the metal brackets at the top to release it. You will need to reach behind the dash to unhook the speedo cable (plugged into the back of the speedo) first as it's the most restrictive (Fig 11), followed by the other 3 plugs (there may be a 4th on autos). The gauge cluster is then easily removed
To reassemble simply do these steps in reverse. Be careful not to force the speedo cable back into position. It requires very little force when it is aligned properly. It is basically a square shaft which has to slide into a matching square port, so forcing will not do anything helpful.
BELOW: FIGURES 11 and 12
If you are intending to remove the dash to fit different gauge faces there are a few pointers to keep in mind. Be very careful when removing the needles from the fuel and water temp gauges as they have smaller diameter shafts than the other two and consequently can be snapped, making them useless. Also, if you remove the gauges from the cluster, be very careful when screwing them back in, as they are very susceptible to damage from over tightening. As you can see from the following photo (Fig 12) of a water temp gauge (with a snapped shaft and all the copper coils removed) the screws go into metal shafts encased in plastic. If you over tighten them the plastic will split and the metal shaft will be free to turn. When it turns it will snap its connection to the coil and the gauge will become inoperable. If this happens to the water temp gauge it will read an overheat as soon as the engine begins to warm up
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